Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and travelers alike celebrating its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, Unesco recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a exclusive roster of world cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it becomes part of a global network of more than four hundred urban centers across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "demonstrates its profound culinary traditions and dynamic food ecosystem," as noted by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of seventy urban centers around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this time-honored city comes as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, lively, and vibrant city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the spotlight for what has perennially defined its soul: an unparalleled love for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing conversation from morning until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and elevated to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, blending Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was created to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases fresh harvests but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – little-known gems that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a simple joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and involved. The artisan whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but express concern that their younger generation do not want to take up the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will encourage more people around the world to discover these narratives and travel to the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
